Fraser Island Travel 3 - Nick Galvin and family find a resort that's the perfect base for exploring Fraser Island
Meg GalvinIt's been nearly 10 years since we visited Fraser Island - and at the time we both vowed never to repeat the experience. Not that there's anything wrong with the island itself - you don't find dud destinations on the World Heritage List. Other circumstances totally spoiled that last trip. The unrelenting, pouring rain was bad enough. Add to that an exhausting, 10-kilometre slog through wet sand with full packs (we were penurious backpackers at the time) to get to the camping ground and you can see how things would start to look pretty bleak.
was bad enough. Add to that an exhausting, 10-kilometre slog through wet sand with full packs (we were penurious backpackers at the time) to get to the camping ground and you can see how things would start to look pretty bleak.
The satisfaction of next morning watching our night-time tormentors being escorted from the island by the rangers was only fleeting, faced as we were with the prospect of another exhausting trudge across the island to meet the ferry.
My wife, in particular, has far from fond memories of Fraser, so when I suggested giving it another go, this time with our two children, she instantly fixed me with a look that could curdle water - until I mentioned the magic word "resort". After a quick web tour of the facilities at the Kingfisher Bay Resort, it was a done deal - especially when I threw in the added attraction of whale-watching.
Fraser Island lies about 350 kilometers north of Brisbane and is the world's biggest sand island. It's 123 kilometers long and, believe me, that is an awful lot of sand. However, despite the lack of soil, Fraser is blanketed in lush, impenetrable forest.
The resort itself is largely screened from the water by the trees and consists of 109 two- and three-bedroom self-contained villas, plus 152 hotel-style rooms spread over its 64 hectares - all heavily interspersed by native forest and facing a large man-made lake. The reception area is a grand, cathedral-ceilinged, open-plan timber-and-metal structure that steps down to a heated pool area.
In 1992, when the resort was built, it was presumably at the cutting edge of environmental practice, at least for Queensland. Fourteen years later it retains an "eco" veneer but it doesn't do to look too closely at its environmental credentials judged by 21st-century standards. For instance, the otherwise very comfortable villas are cool and dark during the day, meaning lights and air-conditioning are on almost constantly. There are plenty of other details that could be improved, from encouraging the cleaners to separate rubbish to using solar power, but it seems mean to quibble - the setting is magnificent and the staff of rangers is endlessly enthusiastic about the unique attractions of the island.
And you don't come to Fraser to sit in your room - the flora, fauna and unique geography are the real stars. The best way to take in most of the sights in a single day is with a four-wheel-drive bus tour. These lumbering vehicles, which look like they would be more at home in army camouflage and sporting a light machine gun on the roof, crisscross the island daily, loaded with day-trippers and overnighters.
"That's the last bitumen we'll see until this afternoon," says our driver/ranger cheerily as we pull out of the resort onto a sand road. The first 45 minutes are spent lurching and bumping across the sand track as we cross the island. The journey is enlivened by an informed commentary from the driver, who appears genuinely excited about every aspect of the island and its history.
One of the highlights is Wangoolba Creek, which runs from the Central Station area in the southern half of the island to the west coast, and is almost cliched in its perfection. The water is so clear that it is virtually invisible as it meanders silently along the sandy creek bed. Spend an hour or two wandering along the shady banks under the towering king palms with the sunlight occasionally breaking through to light up a moss-covered branch and you'll feel like you've stepped in to a living Steve Parish photograph.
The other unmissable spot is Lake McKenzie, which gets geologists all hot and sweaty because it is such a perfect example of a "perched" lake. For the rest of us, the excitement is simply in the gobsmacking natural beauty of the spot. The initial sight of the sand contrasting with the aquamarine water turning almost to black at the center of the lake, backed by the dusty green of the distant bush and the pure blue sky beyond is breathtaking - as is the effect of taking a dip in the chilly fresh water.
As we sit drying off and warming up beside the lake, a solitary dingo trots up the beach, pauses for a second to sniff the wind then wanders off as if it owns the place - which, in many ways, of course, it does. The island's 200 or so dingoes are an apt metaphor for the ambivalent unease that exists between the natural environment and the demands of the 400,000 tourists who descend on Fraser each year. Incidents of visitors being bitten by the wild dogs, which had lost their fear of humans, culminated in the mauling death in 2001 of a nine-year-old boy.
Obviously wary of the catastrophic effect a repeat incident would have on visitor numbers, tourism operators and the Queensland Government have ramped up the dingo warnings. Visitors are repeatedly told of the danger of attack and threatened with huge fines for feeding the animals, to the point almost of paranoia.
A couple of days after seeing the dingo at Lake McKenzie, I was privileged to watch another of the dogs amble up the beach at the Kingfisher Bay Resort. As it passed a family on the beach, the frisson of hysteria was almost palpable as they grabbed their children and backed away nervously as if expecting a frenzied attack at any moment. The dingo was oblivious and simply went about its business. Sure, they're dangerous but I couldn't help thinking that level of paranoia could in the end be counterproductive.
In fact - at least according to the compulsory briefing video - hiring a four-wheel-drive to explore the island under your own steam is a lot more dangerous than the occasional passing dingo. After half an hour of viewing pictures of dazed-looking backpackers standing around overturned Land Rovers and Hilux's on the beach, it was tempting to can the whole idea and opt for a day by the pool instead, but we'd promised the kids.
In the end, despite all the dire warnings, driving around the island was an obscene amount of fun. Hell, it was so much fun I even resolved to find out how to put my own Pajero into four-wheel-drive when I got back to Sydney.
The beach is, in fact, a gazetted highway, so normal road rules apply (if you regard dodging fishermen and the occasional light aircraft in the middle of the "highway" as normal).
It was with a great deal of reluctance that we handed back the keys to our Land Rover Defender. The following day, we boarded the jetcat for the trip home with even more reluctance.
Fraser is a superb destination for a family holiday with more than enough distractions to keep even the most restless holidaymaker occupied for a week, and Kingfisher Bay is the perfect base from which to explore.
And, best of all, they don't allow footy yobs in.
Face-to-tail with a monster of the deep
For some reason, the traditional way to illustrate the size of humpback whales is to compare them to two double-decker buses. But it's only when you come face-to-tail with one of these critters that you realise just how big they really are. And, boy, they are huge.
My chance to get up close and personal with a humpback came on one of the whale-watching trips that depart daily from Kingfisher Bay. The day started with a presentation from an enthusiastic ranger. After about an hour we arrived at Platypus Bay, on the mainland side of the island; this is the hot spot for whales.
A helicopter "spotter" directs tour operators to the whales and we soon sighted a prime specimen entertaining another boat. Seeing us arrive, he detached himself and headed over to put on the same show for our vessel. Over and again he breached and rolled, less than 10 meters from our boat, frequently diving under the vessel and sending the camera-toting passengers running from one side to the other.
It was an awesome display, exhilarating and strangely moving. And it looked nothing like a bus. - Meg Galvin
Destination: Fraser Island
GETTING THERE
Getting to Fraser Island is much easier since the opening in July of the redeveloped Hervey Bay airport. Virgin and Qantas now fly direct and competition between the two ensures fares are pretty keen.
STAYING THERE
Kingfisher Bay Resort has various packages on offer, particularly connected with the whale-watching season, which continues until October. Kingfisher Bay Resort accommodation information and booking.