Fraser Island Travel Story 2

By Christine Retschlag

The sea is the color of blue Curacao, the beach has been dusted with icing sugar and the ocean resembles a Roman square - so fascinating are the fountains.

Were you to cast a coin on this day, the wish would be for whales.

A spectacular spurt of water, the casual flick of a gigantic tail and the occupants of the tourist boat are dwarfed into glorious insignificance.

The Fraser Coast is Mother Nature's crèche where whale calves somersault into the air while back on the world's largest sand island, dingo pups sit curiously in the shadows.

Fraser Island is the kind of place with which you immediately fall in love.

Tour operator Mark Jappenlutz came to the island 12 years ago, got "stuck" as they say in four-wheel drive parlance, had a carton of beer in the back of his beast and realized life didn't get much better.

"It's like the Gold Coast without the high-rises," he says.

"When you wake up and there's been a high tide and the four-wheel drive tracks are all gone, and you drive along 75 mile beach, you think you are the only person on the island.  It's like paradise."

Certainly, there's a whole lot of Queensland rolled into one on this idyllic island.

Firstly, there's the beach, which stretches for 75 miles, punctuated only by fresh rivulets from creeks such as Eli, where the water is so fresh you can drink it.

Further up, you'll stumble across the wreck of the Maheno, ravaged by salt water but an elegant bookmark on this otherwise deserted beach.

And then there's the columns of colored sands, stretching towards the sky like the sphinxes of Egypt.

There's also a rainforest through which runs a crystal clear stream, and Lake McKenzie, from the air a gorgeous blue pot hole, framed by white sand and surrounded by lush vegetation.

While one of the best ways to explore the island is by four-wheel drive, you can also have a bird's eye view with Air Fraser, which offers joy flights and a beach landing you'll never forget.

From this perspective, it's easy to see why the Badjutla Aborigines call Fraser paradise.

For the visitor, there are a number of accommodation options.

The adventurous can grab a four-wheel drive and pitch camp in the dunes where the sun is your only wakeup call and your nearest neighbours are the rolling waves.

For the budget traveler, Eurong Beach Resort offers a basic bed with a million-dollar view, or you could opt for a clean and comfortable hotel unit.

For those seeking a more upmarket experience with an eco flavour, Kingfisher Bay Resort is architecturally designed to take the best advantage of mother nature's gifts.

Generous hotel rooms feature balconies perched in the bush, sensuous spa baths soothe the tired traveler and in an environmental masterstroke, shampoo, soap and shaving cream are all dispensed from wall units.

The main pool is the perfect antidote to a busy day but to catch a quintessential Queensland sunset, head down to the jetty where, with champagne glass in hand, you can watch the golden hues turn to reds and pinks.

Kingfisher Bay Resort also offers a number of dining alternatives and you can expect to eat fresh herbs grown on island at the first-class Seabelle Restaurant.

Fraser Island is best accessed by nearby Hervey Bay and if, like this writer, you haven't been there in 12 years, you're in for a pleasant surprise.

The Outrigger chain has chosen the harbour as home for one of its fine resorts, bedecked in colorful furnishings and a spa bath big enough for two.

From your generous balcony, you can watch the whale boats depart on their daily pilgrimage and return with delighted tourists.

The Spirit of Hervey Bay claims to be the only whale watching vessel which allows views of whales in their natural environment through underwater viewing rooms.  Or you can simply stand on top deck, and watch the show.

As they say in the brochure.it will leave you breathless.

A bit like the Fraser Coast really.