Fraser Island Travel Story 1
By Sue FullerUpdated May 2004
In just a few hours on Fraser Island, Sue Fuller swam in a rainwater
lake with freshwater turtles, floated down a creek and walked
through ancient virgin rainforest.
Not your typical day, unless you're part of the Fraser Island
Company's Exclusive Tour.
The Exclusive Tour, which has earned EcoCertification, is limited to
just 16 passengers.
The tour leaves from Hervey Bay's Urangan Boat Harbour, with our
guide shepherding us onboard the barge for the 45-minute ride across
the Great Sandy Straits. It's too early in the season for whale
spotting, but a trio of dolphins accompany us part of the way.
Strolling off the barge, we board the waiting emerald green
customised 4WD bus. Settling into leather seats, we are handed
binoculars for wildlife spotting and we're off. There's even a mini
library onboard, with reference guides to the island's flora and
fauna.
In just over nine hours, we'll cover 80km, taking in some of
Fraser's most spectacular sites, including Eli Creek, Lake Allom and
the Pinnacles.
One of the highlights is a drive through the Yidney Scrub
Rainforest, the only virgin rainforest on the island untouched by
the logging industry. Our guide deposits us in the midst of the
rainforest and drives on ahead, so we can stroll the sand track
through the towering satinay, brush box and Piccabeen palms.
All through the day, he shares his vast knowledge of the world's
largest sand island in easily-digested commentary on the flora,
fauna, eco-systems, Indigenous and logging history, switching
between English and German for the German tourists on board.
Our next stop is at the Fraser Island Retreat, where morning tea
awaits. Freshly-brewed coffee, tea, cheesecake, muffins, pastries
and fresh fruit is served on the shady verandah.
Heading north, there are a couple of planes parked on the beach,
near Eli Creek, our next destination.
"We have to keep an eye out for planes landing on the beach," says
our guide. "I'll see the shadow of wings overhead and know there's a
plane above getting ready to land."
There's plenty of time for a swim and stroll along the boardwalk
above Eli Creek, the largest freshwater creek on the island.
I walk to the top of the boardwalk, and float downstream with the
current. No need to paddle, the creek has a flow rate of around 4.5
million litres of fresh water every hour. The only time I accelerate
is when I see a metre-long eel glide serenely by.
"Don't worry, they only nip," says our guide, with a knowing grin.
The island's abundance of freshwater helped it gain its World
Heritage-listed status. It lies on a freshwater reservoir the size
of Sydney Harbour, with more than 52 freshwater lakes and around 80
freshwater streams and creeks supporting its fragile ecosystems.
Fraser Island receives up to 3ms of rain every year - double the
amount Darwin receives during its wet season.
We continue to drive along the beach, stopping for a closer look at
the Shipwreck SS Maheno, a Scottish built ship which washed ashore
in 1935.
The rusting hulk is still a dramatic sight, but is completely off
limits. Amazingly, some people ignore the warning signs and only the
previous week, a backpacker was airlifted to the mainland after
falling through the rusted deck.
Our next stop is lunch in a secluded picnic spot behind Cathedral
Beach Resort. Once again we've got the area to ourselves, a private
lunch in paradise is feeling very exclusive. Our guide lays out
nibbles and we're invited to help ourselves to an icy cold beer or
glass of wine.
One of the English girls stretches out in the sun, while a German
couple take a closer look at the golden orb spiders whose webs are
blowing in the gentle breeze nearby.
What a difference it makes having a guide who can help you
understand what you're looking at.
Thanks to our guide, we're alert but not alarmed. Unlike some
spiders on the island, the golden orb aren't deadly but possess an
amazing six varieties of venom, to 'customise' their bite. There's a
venom reserved for bugs, a different one for birds and so it goes.
By now, delicious cooking aromas lure us back to the barbecue where
fish steamed in garlic butter and herbs, and juicy steaks are served
up with fresh salads and fruit.
On the drive inland, we are told about the island's Indigenous
history. Carbon dating of shell middens has established that
Indigenous people lived on the island from around 300AD. We learn of
the Dreamtime legend of the coloured or rainbow sands, and how
Aborigines learned to process a deadly poisonous fruit full of
cyanide so it could be safely baked and eaten.
One of the day's highlights is our visit to Lake Allom, one of the
island's more than 40 perched lakes.
The perfect oval-shaped lake is completely surrounded by reeds and
melaleuca forest, which stain the waters tea-coloured. Walking down
to the water's edge, up pops the head of a freshwater kreft turtle.
Another one, and another one and soon, a dozen are lazily swimming
around just a couple of metres away.
To achieve advanced EcoCertification, the Fraser Island Company has
undergone a rigorous assessment process and met specific criteria,
including best practice for ecologically sustainable tourism.
"We want to have as little impact on the island as possible in a
sustainable way," according to our guide. "The only thing we leave
on the island are footprints and tyre prints and the only thing we
take are memories and photos."
The family-run Fraser Island Company operates a range of tours
including the Exclusive tours, two-day safaris, three-day camping
tours and self-drive getaways.
The all-inclusive cost includes free pick-up and drop off from
accomodation in Hervey Bay, morning tea, barbecue lunch and
complimentary drinks, tour guide, barge and National Park fees.